Rainy day in Istanbul

The Tour ended. Our fellow travellers dispersed. I wanted to post things back to Oz and take my clothes to a laundromat before checking out of Hotel Nidya at Noon with a transfer to Hotel Levni in the old quarter.

It started to rain as Anneli and I set out on our 3km walk to find a Post Office. on our way and across the road we saw the Palace - the Dolme Bacchi. We decided after sending off 2kgs of books and gifts that that's where we'd go.

Well this is a fairytale Palace. While built for the Sultan in the 1840s, because the Top Kapi Palace was apparently not opulent enoug. The Sultan hired the best Italian and French craftsmen to build something of quintessential extravagance on reclaimed land next to the Bosporus River.

Think Cinderella at the Ball. Think Versailles. Think Mozart playing to the Court. Beautiful formal gardens with stately ponds and ornate fountains. See photos on Facebook.

But we weren't allowed to photograph within the Palace, we were put into a tour group which would walk a thin line through the Palace with an English speaking guide (who looked like a dashing prince, no less). And we put plastic bags over our shoes. Max visitors in a day- 3000.

Think 10,000 piece crystal chandeliers. Think massive red carpeted stairways that swoop around on 2 sides with crystal ballastrade legs. Think very large spaces with gold dripping from the ceiling and fancy frescoes, and bear furs with their heads on the floor. And giant elephant tusk ornaments.

All these gifts from England, France,  India, China - all over the world. Gift giving diplomacy for the powerful and the rich. 'Where does it all come from and who pays for it? ' the cries my forever Bolshy heart.

Well even Attaturk enjoyed the spoils of the Dolma Bacchi during his presidency.

We didn't have time to see the Harem. We had to take a taxi to get back to Hotel Nidya before our transfer to Hotel Levni on 12 Ankara Caddesi.

We were welcomed at reception with drinks and suggestions of places to visit by a French girl called Mathilde.

By that time it was pissing down with rain. Was going to take clothes to laundry but with the rain, the Hotel Service seemed more attractive. Just doing my smalls by hand.

So we set out again all rainproofed- up thanks to Rosie's over-gumboots. We visited the 3rd century Cistern, built to contain the city's water underground. They used the old Greco-Roman columns, some Corinthian and even 2 heads of Medusa statues and had high Byzantine ceilings. It was revitalised in 1973 and they keep carp in there to keep the water clean,

We had a terrible and expensive lunch in a tourist area, then caught the tram to Kudasi from where we would take the finnicular to Tacsum Square.

We walked down Independence Street, all lined with designer label shops, until we reached the more Bohemian end. And then every second shop was an instrument shop or related to music in some way.

We stopped at a Cafe playing beautiful music and had Apple Tea, while looking at the passing crowd, a husband and wife from Syria passed, the father holding the child and the mother holding a sign.I gave them money.

At the bottom the hill we caught a tram 2 stations back to Levni, stopping to but Knafe on the way, and a new expensive Wolf Kin backpack.

Now I'm buggered. Happily so.

Istanbul..Constantinople

Monsiur Camembert, I hear your song!

It's the last day of The Tour and I'm so over it. I just want a day of rest to recharge my batteries and get my life in order again. They really pack it in these Fez Tours. So many early mornings, followed by too many things in one day.

It's like a check-list of 'been there, done that' rather than having some time really absorb it all, research, chew it over, feel it.

Today was just pushing it too much for me. My leg misbehaved. We walked kilometres. And our rough chain-smoking disgruntled bad tempered mad guide, talked too much with too little regard for us.

We got off to a late start and picking up some other passengers in the old quarter, golden horn, which is not made for traffic yet there's plenty of it.

Our first stop was the Greco-Roman Hippodrome/Stadium and an explanation of this earthquake prone area which is really like a layercake of history with the next stuff being rebuilt on the ruins of the last.

The next was the Blue Mosque. We scarved up and shoed off, and it was a total surprise for me inside. I hadn't expected it to be so  light and so decorative. All those lovely symbols of the flowers: tulip, carnation and rose, in beautiful designs and patterns. So uplifting to the spirit.

The guide went on about its earthquake proof construction, and how a girls job was to weave a carpet. She was selected as a wife by its merits. After she died the carpet came to this mosque. But they were then 'relocated' and now they have to make do with a nylon carpet. (see Facebook for photos)

San Sophia opposite the Blue Mosque, looked like a Mosque but it was a Byzantine Church, rebuilt 3 times following Earth Quakes. It contained some interesting mosaics and is UNESCO world Heritage listed, but I found it dark and gloomy. Very hotch potch.

After this we visited Top Kapi Palace, the home of the Sultan. While very beautiful with gorgeous gardens, architecture and detail in tilework, calligraphy etc, I was really struggling physically. And my thoughts were saying 'you bloody opulent Sultans. all  these world leaders rubbing shoulders with you, because you're so rich and powerful. Yet your Empire has amassed wealth from.pillaging other countries and their people'. Maybe I'll look at it differently after rest.

But no, we kept going. After food we were taken to a silk and angora scarf shop. They like us to buy but we don't. Last stop is the Grand Bazaar.  It may have been special in the past but it exists for tourists these days. We take a peak, then catch the train back to the Hotel

And rest!

Istanbul..Constantinople

Monsiur Camembert, I hear your song!

It's the last day of The Tour and I'm so over it. I just want a day of rest to recharge my batteries and get my life in order again. They really pack it in these Fez Tours. So many early mornings, followed by too many things in one day.

It's like a check-list of 'been there, done that' rather than having some time really absorb it all, research, chew it over, feel it.

Today was just pushing it too much for me. My leg misbehaved. We walked kilometres. And our rough chain-smoking disgruntled bad tempered mad guide, talked too much with too little regard for us.

We got off to a late start and picking up some other passengers in the old quarter, golden horn, which is not made for traffic yet there's plenty of it.

Our first stop was the Greco-Roman Hippodrome/Stadium and an explanation of this earthquake prone area which is really like a layercake of history with the next stuff being rebuilt on the ruins of the last.

The next was the Blue Mosque. We scarved up and shoed off, and it was a total surprise for me inside. I hadn't expected it to be so  light and so decorative. All those lovely symbols of the flowers: tulip, carnation and rose, in beautiful designs and patterns. So uplifting to the spirit.

The guide went on about its earthquake proof construction, and how a girls job was to weave a carpet. She was selected as a wife by its merits. After she died the carpet came to this mosque. But they were then 'relocated' and now they have to make do with a nylon carpet. (see Facebook for photos)

San Sophia opposite the Blue Mosque, looked like a Mosque but it was a Byzantine Church, rebuilt 3 times following Earth Quakes. It contained some interesting mosaics and is UNESCO world Heritage listed, but I found it dark and gloomy. Very hotch potch.

After this we visited Top Kapi Palace, the home of the Sultan. While very beautiful with gorgeous gardens, architecture and detail in tilework, calligraphy etc, I was really struggling physically. And my thoughts were saying 'you bloody opulent Sultans. all  these world leaders rubbing shoulders with you, because you're so rich and powerful. Yet your Empire has amassed wealth from.pillaging other countries and their people'. Maybe I'll look at it differently after rest.

But no, we kept going. After food we were taken to a silk and angora scarf shop. They like us to buy but we don't. Last stop is the Grand Bazaar.  It may have been special in the past but it exists for tourists these days. We take a peak, then catch the train back to the Hotel

And rest!

To Constaninople

Took 12 hours on the bus from Capadoccia to Istanbul/ Constantinople. apart from a few refresher stops, we made a point of stopping at Ankara, the capital to see Attaturks Mausoleum. Garman, our Guide asked for our respect.

Attaturk is the founding father of modern day Turkey as a secular democratic state in 1923, following defeat in WW1, the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire and a revolution to overturn the occupation of Turkey which had been carved up between allied forces.

There were many radical changes including a change in alphabet to Latin, a massive education program and the introduction of sir names. A distinct alignment with Europe while forging a national identity and giving a voice to women and minorities.

Turkey stayed neutral throughout the WWII. However I have heard some horror stories about Turkey and wanted to ask about freedom of the media and treatment of dissidents as hallmarks of democracy.

It's a funny country and I'm trying to make head and tail of an incredibly complex history. The Turks are so Central Asian. They have had tribes come and conquer, or take refuge. and other tribes have left and dispersed. Like the Parachinari refugees who stayed with me were from a Turkish Tribal group who had settled in that area some time ago.

Then there was this huge dominion of the Ottoman Empire for 600 years, over Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Syria, Iran, Iraq, the Stans, North Africa. They seemed to have ruled without regard to anyone and amassed great wealth, some of which we have experienced today in Istanbul.

We booked into our Hotel, then 12 from  the bus crew head out to near the Galagas Bridge to celebrate our last night together.

To Capadoccia

We find ourselves tonight in a Prince of Persia complex in Capadoccia. Our room is carved out like a cave with an uneven floor that goes uphill to a tiny door into an old fashioned bathroom.

To go to the restaurant it was up steps and along Islamic arched verandahs and around corners and downsteps, past the pool to yet another exquisite buffet meal of Turkish food.

Tomorrow morning I must wake at 5am for a balloon flight that leaves at 5.30am before the sunrise. This has been something I've longed for my whole life. This kind of flight, but over the fairy chimneys of Capadoccia is something else.

Today we have been in a bus for the best part of 12 hours with a few toilet stops on the way and 2 very other special places.

The first was in Konya, the last stop on the Silk Road and the serchook capital. Mevelana del Aladdin I Rumi came here at the age of 12 in the 12th Century,a poet, a philosopher, who denounced material goods, in favour of the Love of God and Respect for All Living Creatures. It's where the swirling dervishes derive from.

Like all good prophets like Jesus, St Francis of Assissi and Rumi who live humble lives and refuse wealth, the followers tend to lavish wealth on idolising them, rather than follow in the footsteps of their teachings.

Same thing happened here with one of the first mosques built after Rumis death. The place had been turned into a museum, housing original hand inscribed and illuminated Korans, even a bit of the prophet Muhammeds beard and many artefacts of the derwishes.

The other special place we stopped was a caravansai.  All along the silk  route there were 100s of these enormous enclosures where traders and merchants could rest a night or three with their camels.

Inside were rooms, verandahs, trading halls and a mosque. Oh so beautiful in proportion and symmetry and detail, you could just imagine how it was 700 years ago

Cappadocia

Imagine taking off in a hot air balloon as the sun was beginning to rise over the Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia, Turkey.

This was something I could only ever dream of, but today I did it.

We arrived in the dark, passing massive balloons being laid out and being blown up in the fields around Goreme, and between the fairy stacks. Loads of them. As the sky lightened a little we watched the luminescence of rising balloons across the valley and in the sky.

Soon it was our turn. There were 20 of us altogether 5 in each of 4 compartments in the basket. Vu was our pilot in the middle.

We floated around the valley close to the strange rock formations and after a while we rose up to see the sun rise over the old volcano.  it was breathtaking - a whole sky full of hot air balloons, as well as down below in the valleys, the red and pink valleys. It was just extraordinary. We climbed over 6000 feet.

After an hour Vu started searching for a landing place but a breeze had come up apparently and he couldn't land where he hoped to. So we were up an extra 25 minutes and he came down in a place where the ground crew could catch the rope and pull us down to land squarely on the trailer, and save us from hitting Powerlines.

We drove around on the trailer still in the basket with the balloon fully inflated. Eventually we climbed out, and the crew set up a champagne and cherry juice breakfast. They decorated the basket with leaves and Roses. Some of them deflated and packed away the balloon. While I watched they called me closer, then lifted me up and threw me onto the packed balloon.

Back at the Prince of Persia Hotel we had to knock back breakfast quickly in time for the days tours.

First was an underground city for early Christians escaping from marauding Romans and other groups. In the middle of the day we visited the Fairy Chimneys and went into the home of someone who'd lived there for4 generations. Later in the day we also visited a Byzantine Monastery which was also underground. It was the place if Saint Basil, with early frescoes from 8th and 9th centuries, and plaster frescoes from later on 11th and 12th centuries. The Sercuk sultan protected the Christians and they honoured him in a fresco.

We also visited a jewellery, precious stores shop, with demonstrations of Torquoise  originating from Turkey) and sultanite, a crystal that changes in colour, depending on the light.

We visited a pottery shop and saw a demonstration of pottery making that dates back to the Hittites who were in the area for up to 3000 years bc, and revered nature.

I'm so buggered I've got to sleep

Kusadasi and Ephesus

I don't know if I had an exam if I'd get of this right, but today was one big history lesson in the flesh ( or stone).

We left the port city of Kusadasi for Ephesus after a yummy breakfast,  trying to make it there before more rainfall.

Now let's see - this was the land of the Amazons and then the Persian Empire took over and then they were beaten by Alexander the Great and it became a Greek Empire and called Anatolia,  soon to be overruled by the Roman Empire who called it Asia Minor. After initial persecution of Christians gave way to acceptance under ? ?  There are 7 of the 12 Apostles who are marked by major sites in Turkey, including St John. And then the Turks arrived from Asia and the Stans in the 1100s. The Ottomans were one of those tribes who dominated

So Ephesus was discovered under the dirt in 1903 and while excavations continue, only 15% has been uncovered. The period of this majestic city is around 300BC to 300AD.

It was a society with a structure. At the top of the hill was Government who worked out taxes and trade. There was local government who dealt with sewerage, hospitals etc.

There was like half amphitheatres with ingresses called vomitatarians, so that people could leave after The News or a Gladiator Fight.

There were communal toilets with underground drainage systems. There were communal baths where diplomacy took place, and a 4 sectioned area for steam and heat at different temperatures, regulated by the spacing of columns under the marble floors.

We saw places where the elite lived in beauty and luxury.

We saw the market places.

And the statues to the Goddess Artemis, Goddess of Fertility and Agriculture. We saw Nike, Hercules and others, who later transferred to be Roman Gods.

The ruins were impressive but the scale was grander, with evidence of multi-storey temples and massive statues that stood high on the hill and out over the harbour.

After a few hours in Ephesus we headed to Sirence, a hill town that specialises in fruit wines. We drank some mulberry juice and explored the town along up and down streets with craftshops on the side.

The hills, mountains and valleys are so abundant with olives, walnuts, mandarins, quinces, mulberries - you name it! The land of plenty and the best food.

On the way back to the Hotel we stop at a weaving co-op where they make Turkish Carpets. We saw how the silk is made. From Silk Cocoons in hot water to the gathering of the threads, to the loom, to the art, to a demonstration, to some raki (Annise) to the Sales. I would have liked to have purchased something and supported the co-op but just couldn't.

Big day - so tired. Almost out of battery.

Chesaycueredam,  thankyou

Goodnight