The Journey is closing

Resting up in Saigon after night on the Unification Express from DaNang. 1pm - 5.30am HCMC

We've had our Highlands Coffee. A wonder Lee can sleep. I certainly can't.

It's been an interesting trip. Very much shaped by Lees disability from.the stroke. But none the less enjoyable. I've enjoyed his company by and large. It's nice to share the trials and tribulations of travelling with someone. And the food.

Lee is not short of enthusiasm or determination. Physically he has no use of his left side.  He has a splint and a built up shoe and has to swing his leg around in order to walk. His right arm and leg are strong in order to compensate. 7 years since the stroke and his speech is now perfect and his brain is sharp.  However he can't walk far before his back aches and he is need of many medications.

It is 14 years since his 50th when we climbed to the top of Mt Wilhelm at 15,000 feet. And he ran in a triathlon.  So much can happen in a few short years.

Our meeting up in Vietnam was an unknown by two risk-takers. It didn't take long to find out he was already stitched up with a young Papua New Guinean woman. Always there is 'another woman'. Doesn't matter how disabled the old bastard gets, it's still the same. This time I'm the 'secret woman'. Wouldn't have a bar of it, so the terms were engraved on my part from the beginning.

Anyway we have done things rather differently than I would on my own. Stayed in very comfortable hotels, used taxis to take us places, hooked up with drivers and translators for half day tours pitched to our needs. And had our laundry done by the hotel regularly. So my idea of savings has gone a bit by the wayside as we do it by kitty. 

One thing he has a penchant for is Street food, and when we do this, not only do we get a rich experience but we pay 10times less than in a restaurant. Avoid women with the baskets - they charge 1O times more too, got caught out paying equivalent of $18 for a bunch of bananas.  Just cos it looks like it'll be cheap doesn't Mean it is.Eg a rickshaw driver will charge 200,000 dong $12 for the same distance a taxi will charge 20,000 dong $1.20. Again, 10 times as much for tourist gimmicks.

everywhere we've gone we've been greeted with friendliness and helpfulness. I've been practising my Vietnamese and managed to do food transactions in the street just using Vietnamese, now the numbers are getting better.

I think the photos on FB will show where we have been and what we have done.

Lee and I have been reading a book aloud together - Shaman
The second in the Cole Trilogy by Noah Gordon. It's been really compelling and relaxing to do this.

Now I feel some sense of sadness that the journey is ending, and a sense of anxiety about returning to work.

But also a sense of satisfaction that this journey was everything I hoped for and more.

For that, I am grateful.  Grateful to the Union Movement for Making Long Service Leave possible.

A week in Vietnam

Writing this on the road to Ninh Binh. The place was a highlight when Pip and I visited 5 years ago. Think of those misty mountain Chinese inkwash paintings  with craggy Karsts rising from watery fields.

Was almost going to miss out on visiting Ninh Binh as we lost a day or two with Lees coming late.  Lee must have been sick of me raving about this Halong Bay on Land,  so he suggested I go while he had a day of rest. So that's exactly what I'm doing. It was a good call
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His stroke effects the left side of his body, so there's no control of his leg and arm on that side.  But he's had a fierce determination to not let it stop him from doing what he wants to do, so there's heaps of adapting he has had to do.

His speech is now 100% and he now is mentally astute, at the ready to make a quip or joke.

It was a bit of a mad crazy thing to do, to meet up with the crazy old bastard in Vietnam and maybe that's the kind of risk takers we both are. I've had too many years of Independence to sacrifice any of that. My life, wherever that is, will be south of Sydney and his will be north of Cairns.

But so far so good.

It surprised me that he was in his element stepping out into Hang Bo Street with motorbikes, rickshaws and cars coming in each direction, footpaths being taken up with bike parking and street vendors, and both of us cripples managed to squat down on a red plastic stool to tuck into a kind of Pho on the verge between footpath and road. Unable to only use one chopstick and a spoon, he made a right mess, but was ecstatic with the buzz of it.

We booked Monkey Island Tours to take us to Halong Bay. One night on a junk. And one night on Monkey Island. Pip and I did this in 2010 and loved it. We are one of 1000s of tourists going through this  UNESCO World Heritage listed place daily but still it is magic.

The serenity of those limestone Karsts rising from the bottle-green depths of calm water is extraordinary. A labyrinth of Karsts, each with steep sided cliffs and it's own unique formation. To lie on the top deck and breath it in is awesome.

Our fellow travellers consisted of 6 Koreans including 3 children, 5 Indians from Tamil Nadu via Mumbai, 2 sullen German Guys, 1really friendly Gujerati guy from Texas, a couple from England, and a retired American couple, Judith and Richard. She was an anthropologist and he a medical professor. They had raised their children in the Congo. So you see us fruit salad of international citizens, bound by the means to travel as tourists.

Our Guide, Can, was good natured, informative and really obliging. Went out of his way to help Lee up steps, onto other boats etc. And the crew just have that essentially Vietnamese qualities of relaxed and friendly efficiency.  Nothing is ever a big deal

Meals were fantastic, healthy and varied from banquets to buffets diy spring rolls to BBQ of freshly caught squid, fish and oysters. And great use of choko in many forms to make that old weed delicious.

Monkey Island Resort had been developed since 2010 but not spoilt. Still a bungalow with a beach to ourselves and a place where time stays still. You just feel so relaxed that you want to stay there forever.

(I break here, to announce that today is a very special day. My daughter Nikki got married to Andrew. The beginning of a wedding that will take 2 years to complete - feeling stoked!)

Nikki and I are both Monkeys and I crossed over the mountain to the Monkey Beach. It wasn't far but it was steep with craggy pointed limestone. I took it very slowly and carefully but it was my first bushwalk post hip op blues. Im pretty proud of myself for doing that.

We were rewarded by seeing monkeys on the beach and trees, doing antics of every kind. They can be aggro so a woman with a pole helped keep them at a distance from people if they were getting ready to jump.

It was a full day by the time we got back to Ha Noi. I'm so tired now after another day at Ninh Binh. I'm going to post and be done with it.

On Leaving Europe

Wow, 7 weeks ago arriving in Athens with the sniffles and now after: Santorini, Mykonos, Samos, Ephesus, Pummakale, Capadoccia and Istanbul with Anneli. And venturing out solo to Catania, Syracusa, Etna, Toarmina, Palermo, Napoli, Sorrento, Pompeii, Amalfi, Roma, Florence and now Paris staying with Trish and Terry - i am full of the spoils of my experiences.

My bag is no heavier. I have had to watch the weight with my hip and I still use the walking stick.  But I do feel healthier for the walking. And especially after eating fresh vegies, fruits, nuts and meats with Cuz over the past few days. Can't say that about the stodge I ate in Italy. Turkey had to have provided the best of breakfasts with salads, fruit, herbs and cheeses.

I feel my soul is replenished. Going back to Florence was just perfect.  The streets, the views  the arts. And while old friends may well have moved on,it was great to meet Enrico, a Florentine and Luca a Padovan in Roma. And Giangi Alex and Francesco in Catania.P x

I had time to be with Dad in my thoughts when I visited the Carravaggios in Syracuse and Napoli. With Mary Martin in the Uffizzi in Florence. With Mum for the lightness of the Impressionists. With Nikki all the way for my rugged knitting attempts along the way. And for Rosie in so many ways. She got me started on AirBnBs and helped me in so many practical ways: lightweight fold up umbrella, fan (which I lost) and many other useful tips and advice. Anneli too for persuading me with Jack Wolfskin pack and birkenschtock sandles, that are likely to be useful in Asia.

I was alone these last few weeks but I was not alone. I was connected to Jo, to Pip, to Rhonda, Silvia, Jennifer, Ann, Rosie and others by way of Facebook.

In Turkey and Greece I had my big tourist adventures. From 6000Bc the civilisation at Akrotiri to the Greeks to the Romans to Byzantium, I began to piece the layers together across countries as if it was sedimentary rock, with Seljuk incursions in Turkey and Arabs in Sicily. I could identify Hadrians Wall and Temple to Apollo whether in Athens, Ephesus, Syracusa or Pompei. 

Along with these layers came the growth of Christianity and places to hide when dominant  forces were at odds with you. The holes for living underground or in extraordinary rocks in  Cappadocia remain the highlight for me. To see these from the air in a hot-air balloon was the experience of a life time. To spoil myself like this is an early 60th.gift to myself. Because being up high and flying is one of my favourite things in the whole wide world.

And that's where I am now. Somewhere over India. On my way to Bankok, then after a few days onto Hanoi. Vietnam is also one of my favourite places and it's here u will meet Lee. An unknown. Let's see.

Scarey Experience

Vivi. Just say no to everything!

I was accosted by 3 women because I wanted to buy a fan for the one I lost of Rosie's. I might have been more open to women vendors after visit to the Women's Museum.

Maybe thought I should share my wealth around a bit. However it felt more like daylight robbery and I'm feeling a little ashamed about how I let myself into it in the first place.

They asked 220,000 for 1 fan ie $13. Then said 2 for 280,000. I said I only wanted one but then liked 2 designs and you take 2.

Still unfamiliar with the look of the money after 3 days, and unassertive enough to free myself from.a situation that is clearly a rip off, I open my purse. Then they get in there, which I assumed was to help me, but they end up with their fingers in every pocket and rip away my American dollars at least $130 and put it in her bag.

I point to the bag and say give it back, but she just starts giving me American dollars I'm change. Small amounts. And throwing I. Another fan.

I feel like crying and I feel angry, but I let it happen. Should u go to the police? They'd just say it's my fault.

Gertrude concedes. Yes its all your fault. Just stay inside and don't come out.

..... Fortunately after this I meet a friendly Australian woman who teaches English at Koto. I'm able to talk about what happened and get it off my chest a bit.

Koto or Know One Teach One is an enterprise started by a Viet Australian to teach young Vietnamese Street kids in Hospitality. They learn English and all parts of the trade, and money is brought in by the restaurants and other initiatives. Janet was really playing the tough customer to test out the kids skills.

I felt I didn't want to cross another road having had my arse shaved by a car that didn't stop on a pedestrian crossing, and the shakiness of the daylight robbery with the 3 women.

I just wanted to go back to my hotel and stay in.

Hello Vietnam

No, it was Good Morning Vietnam - Vale beloved Robin Williams!!

Sitting on a bench under the shade of trees on the edge of Hoan Kiem Lake. It's so pleasant!  Not too hot, not too cold and the beeping traffic 15 metres away instead of a hairs bredth between a motorbike and your butt.

Lees flight was delayed a day due to misunderstandings about what Visa on Arrival actually means. So he's in Singapore an extra night. And I just have this extra day to play with. So I'm taking a slow walk along the lake to the Women's Museum.

Yesterday was a buzz, when Trang Bui, hubby Duc and now 21month old Ling came over to the Spring Flower Hotel on their motorcycle.

We went a block away to have coffee alla robusta Vietnamese style. Ling befriended a cute white fluffy dog and both her parents showed her how to pat the dog gently.

They invited me to lunch at their place so we took taxi/uber equivalent into the burbs which were equally as narrow streets but cleaner and quieter.

I met Grandpa Ong and Grandma Baa, who were preparing a hotpot with pippis. Squid, prawns, pork, mushrooms and greens to cook in the stock, a bit at a time. All fresh food purchased every day. Ling is gently cared for by Trang, Duc, Baa and Ong in turn.

Duc said he found it difficult to adjust back to Vietnam after living in Australia for 2years. It felt cramped and suffocating. They wanted Ling to go to a preschool with outdoor space, which was rare. But they found an International School where there was a garden, a play-based approach and English sessions. They're keen for her to be bilingual.

After this special meal and while Ling was having her nap we headed out to explore a few places.  Streets in some areas are named for what the sell, like Hang Bo is Bowl Street.

Well we visited Book Street and icecream Street (well the street where icecream was first created in Vietnam). 

In the bookshop I was approached by a young Vietnamese man whose English teacher had given him the brave task of starting a conversation with an English speaking person. Hanging around the English book section gave him this opportunity. So he introduced himself and his task. He told me about the books he really likes and he showed a book by a Japanese author who wrote a book about the relationship between an old war veteran and a 'lost' child. He said he loved books about children. Our conversation turned to Studio Ghiblie animations. I thought he was a brave and interesting person for getting so involved in the task, and I feel privileged it was me.

Then Duc, Trang and I went to look at the Opera House, checked out performances and then went to the Historical Museum. Trang had never been before.

Interesting to see the history from prehistoric times to the present day. The Cham from the South and their  Buddhism with Sri Lanka influences, the extension of the Chinese Empire into the north, the resistances against Mongols, Chinese, French, Japanese and finally Americans. Vietnamese understand Vietnam in ways nobody else can.

We see the turtle featured strongly along with the phoenix, the dragon and the unicorn. The turtle is a symbol for strength and longevity. It carries great things on its shoulders and at Hoan Kiem Lake it is attributed for giving a sword at a critical time that was then returned to the lake.

So nice to be with Trang and Duc and having so much explained to me. And having interesting meandering conversations about all sorts of things.

They returned me to my hotel by taxi and it was goodbye time.

After a little I explored the night market. And that is another story.

Hello Bankok

Wow a few days ago I did the radical transformation from Paris in Autumn into tropical Bankok.

The flight itself didn't seem too bad. 2 x 6hr flights, broken by 6hrs in Dubai Airport. On the last leg I even had 3 seats to stretch across and snooze.

Arrived into Bankok after midnight, got through immigration without a fuss and caught a cab for 500bhat to the hotel Siam11 as a smooth ride. I followed Jonothans crib sheet for all the info.

Crashed out til 1pm.  But the next night and the night after that I couldn't get to sleep til 3 or 4am . But I did finish reading my book - The Physician.

I ventured out and took Rhonda's suggestion of taking a facial, in the backlane behind the Hotel.  Infact the backlane was abuzz with foodsellers, bars, massage places and clothes stalls. The facial was a beautiful relaxing treat.  I wandered around the streets as it got darker, lanterns lit up, and the crowds increased.

I looked at the street food but was not adventurous enough to try. Partly because I know Thai food is hot and I don't like any more chilly than half a thumbnail. It's a shame because I like other spices.

So I settled for a place made for westerners and had beer and stir-fry in oyster sauce.  I do feel self conscious being an older female westerner sitting alone. I see Western males sitting alone too.  on the plane I met 2 Western males who had made Bankok their home.

I know people who absolutely love Bankok, Thailand. The people. The food, the cheapness, the beauty.  I suppose I don't know it after 2 days. I can see the kindness of people, their gentleness, their Buddhist codes for living, and pictures of the king and Queen everywhere.

But Im also conscious that there are elements of predatory Western males who come to Bankok for their own particular self-interest and prey on young girls, or boys who do what they do for poverty,,  Their role is to provide for their families. There seems to be this mutual need going on sometimes. The males looking for wives to meet their every need without complaint. And the females to provide for their families of origin.

So anyway there's me, alone, in the midst of it and making up theories.

On the 2nd day I ventured down the river, then up the river in the public ferry. The boat was a long and crowded one, that crossed the river to stop at terminals on either side. As we came in, a crew member whistled over the top off the chug chug. Under Jonothans suggestion I took the ferry right up to Stop 30.

I couldn't believe the place was teeming with fish. All hopeful mouths to the surface. I later found that the colourful rice crispy looking things they sold in abundance at the kiosk was actually fish-food. Here are kids buying fish-food to feed the fish. The water is thick with them splashing about.

I thought they were free-will fish who could swim to the river if they needed more space, but Rhonda assured me they're netted in and they get netted.

Such a mix of old and new Bankok, roads that form spaghetti loops like another lacy layer above the city. Skyscrapers that are getting experimental in their design, like dissolving pixilations.  And here below in tiny buzzing streets that sell all manner of food and wears busily frequented by locals and a smattering of tourists, I buy freshly squeezed mandarin juice.

I think to my primary school geography lessons and the TV programs we watched back then, recalling all the exotic tropical fruit sold in sampan markets on the river. These tropical climes are made for growing food and flowers in abundance.

On the boat I notice that when a seat becomes available that parents invariably make sure their children are seated before themselves. I find this reverence to children remarkable and uplifting.I'm sure roles and responsibilities in families are really demarcated but here there also seems to be so much kindness.

Thai national identity has been incubated. They've retained their independence while neighbours had been colonised. It is staunchly Buddhist and the aesthetic of this kind of Buddhism is found everywhere in the shapes they choose and the way they decorate. It's like ascendant flowers. And for tourists, elephants.

I know we think of Thailand as a peace-loving country but this has been sorely tested recently both internally, in the south with its Muslim minority and the north with deathcamps for Rohingya. See no evil, hear no evil and speak no evil also has a dark side.

Anyway I shall return to this intriguing and mysterious country before I leave to return home to Australia on 20th Nov.

The Women's Museum

Look I'm just taking a Cafe sua da (iced coffee) to reflect on what I've just seen in.the women's museum.

First of all how incredible to have a Women's Museum at all!!! Visited by men and women alike, as well as Vietnamese highschool students, it gives voice and place to the roles of women and girls in Vietnamese Societies.

It's not just one homogeneous Society either but beliefs, customs and practices from the Viet, the Black Thai, Hmong and other groups that comprise Vietnam today, as well as the changes that happen inevitably as the world gets modern together.

The first floor is dedicated to marriage, birth and motherhood. We quickly learn that there are both patrilineal and matrilineal societies operating in Vietnam. Some where the grooms family must provide for the brides, and after a short time the couple must live with the brides family. I know this is really frowned upon by some cultures but I love seeing the variabilities of belief.

Generally it's believed the mother must rest at home for the first month after having the baby. I know this from Viet families I know in Australia too. There are a host of medicinal plants to protect both mother and child during this most vulnerable time. And much to ward off any lurking evil spirits, in one instance, a knife to be plunged between the floorboards.

The next room was the voices and photos of working women. It gave me a renewed appreciation for how hard women work and for so little. Not just women. One woman's husband earned equivalent of $60 per annum raising pigs. There was not enough income from the rice harvest so for certain months women would  leave their children and partners to  come to Ha Noi to become Street vendors, of the like I'm seeing around. I'm glad I didn't complain now when I was charged 100,000 dong for a bunch of bananas, from the street vendor with the double basket over her shoulders.

The next room was about Mother-worship.  This is a purely Vietnamese custom of adoration of the mother, princesses, princes or dames believe to represent Eg. water, the forest and trees. They each have a particular order along with stories, songs, dances, costumes with particular colours.  Both men and women make offerings according to what they have in order to receive purity of spirit and a joyous life. 

I wonder if this is what women must strive to live up to?

The top room was about women in history, including those women who would become revolutionaries or guerrillas in their wars of Independence from French, Japanese and then Americans.

I was really moved, probably because in 1967 I learned of this terrible war and it effected me profoundly. Women did all sorts of things, either front line, underground, moving food and provisions to the fighters, running kindergartens in the tunnels or doing embroidery when they were captured in prison. One woman embroidered her imprisinment dates from various prison she was sent to.

I also feel sad because I know some fantastic Vietnamese people in Australia who were not so happy about the American exodus. Their lives had become entwined, and they were fearful of reprisals under the communist regime, so they fled. They were the refugees of 40 years ago when Australian leadership under Frazer opened our borders and offered a new life. The fruits of that are enjoyed today by all Australians such as the professions offered, great people like Anh Do and my friends, and ofcourse the Children's Festival.

I hope the scars of the past are healing with the young people and with now much more to-ing and fro-ing between countries. An interesting society that gives a green light to capitalism but the red light reigns of government.