Rainy day in Istanbul

The Tour ended. Our fellow travellers dispersed. I wanted to post things back to Oz and take my clothes to a laundromat before checking out of Hotel Nidya at Noon with a transfer to Hotel Levni in the old quarter.

It started to rain as Anneli and I set out on our 3km walk to find a Post Office. on our way and across the road we saw the Palace - the Dolme Bacchi. We decided after sending off 2kgs of books and gifts that that's where we'd go.

Well this is a fairytale Palace. While built for the Sultan in the 1840s, because the Top Kapi Palace was apparently not opulent enoug. The Sultan hired the best Italian and French craftsmen to build something of quintessential extravagance on reclaimed land next to the Bosporus River.

Think Cinderella at the Ball. Think Versailles. Think Mozart playing to the Court. Beautiful formal gardens with stately ponds and ornate fountains. See photos on Facebook.

But we weren't allowed to photograph within the Palace, we were put into a tour group which would walk a thin line through the Palace with an English speaking guide (who looked like a dashing prince, no less). And we put plastic bags over our shoes. Max visitors in a day- 3000.

Think 10,000 piece crystal chandeliers. Think massive red carpeted stairways that swoop around on 2 sides with crystal ballastrade legs. Think very large spaces with gold dripping from the ceiling and fancy frescoes, and bear furs with their heads on the floor. And giant elephant tusk ornaments.

All these gifts from England, France,  India, China - all over the world. Gift giving diplomacy for the powerful and the rich. 'Where does it all come from and who pays for it? ' the cries my forever Bolshy heart.

Well even Attaturk enjoyed the spoils of the Dolma Bacchi during his presidency.

We didn't have time to see the Harem. We had to take a taxi to get back to Hotel Nidya before our transfer to Hotel Levni on 12 Ankara Caddesi.

We were welcomed at reception with drinks and suggestions of places to visit by a French girl called Mathilde.

By that time it was pissing down with rain. Was going to take clothes to laundry but with the rain, the Hotel Service seemed more attractive. Just doing my smalls by hand.

So we set out again all rainproofed- up thanks to Rosie's over-gumboots. We visited the 3rd century Cistern, built to contain the city's water underground. They used the old Greco-Roman columns, some Corinthian and even 2 heads of Medusa statues and had high Byzantine ceilings. It was revitalised in 1973 and they keep carp in there to keep the water clean,

We had a terrible and expensive lunch in a tourist area, then caught the tram to Kudasi from where we would take the finnicular to Tacsum Square.

We walked down Independence Street, all lined with designer label shops, until we reached the more Bohemian end. And then every second shop was an instrument shop or related to music in some way.

We stopped at a Cafe playing beautiful music and had Apple Tea, while looking at the passing crowd, a husband and wife from Syria passed, the father holding the child and the mother holding a sign.I gave them money.

At the bottom the hill we caught a tram 2 stations back to Levni, stopping to but Knafe on the way, and a new expensive Wolf Kin backpack.

Now I'm buggered. Happily so.

Istanbul..Constantinople

Monsiur Camembert, I hear your song!

It's the last day of The Tour and I'm so over it. I just want a day of rest to recharge my batteries and get my life in order again. They really pack it in these Fez Tours. So many early mornings, followed by too many things in one day.

It's like a check-list of 'been there, done that' rather than having some time really absorb it all, research, chew it over, feel it.

Today was just pushing it too much for me. My leg misbehaved. We walked kilometres. And our rough chain-smoking disgruntled bad tempered mad guide, talked too much with too little regard for us.

We got off to a late start and picking up some other passengers in the old quarter, golden horn, which is not made for traffic yet there's plenty of it.

Our first stop was the Greco-Roman Hippodrome/Stadium and an explanation of this earthquake prone area which is really like a layercake of history with the next stuff being rebuilt on the ruins of the last.

The next was the Blue Mosque. We scarved up and shoed off, and it was a total surprise for me inside. I hadn't expected it to be so  light and so decorative. All those lovely symbols of the flowers: tulip, carnation and rose, in beautiful designs and patterns. So uplifting to the spirit.

The guide went on about its earthquake proof construction, and how a girls job was to weave a carpet. She was selected as a wife by its merits. After she died the carpet came to this mosque. But they were then 'relocated' and now they have to make do with a nylon carpet. (see Facebook for photos)

San Sophia opposite the Blue Mosque, looked like a Mosque but it was a Byzantine Church, rebuilt 3 times following Earth Quakes. It contained some interesting mosaics and is UNESCO world Heritage listed, but I found it dark and gloomy. Very hotch potch.

After this we visited Top Kapi Palace, the home of the Sultan. While very beautiful with gorgeous gardens, architecture and detail in tilework, calligraphy etc, I was really struggling physically. And my thoughts were saying 'you bloody opulent Sultans. all  these world leaders rubbing shoulders with you, because you're so rich and powerful. Yet your Empire has amassed wealth from.pillaging other countries and their people'. Maybe I'll look at it differently after rest.

But no, we kept going. After food we were taken to a silk and angora scarf shop. They like us to buy but we don't. Last stop is the Grand Bazaar.  It may have been special in the past but it exists for tourists these days. We take a peak, then catch the train back to the Hotel

And rest!

Istanbul..Constantinople

Monsiur Camembert, I hear your song!

It's the last day of The Tour and I'm so over it. I just want a day of rest to recharge my batteries and get my life in order again. They really pack it in these Fez Tours. So many early mornings, followed by too many things in one day.

It's like a check-list of 'been there, done that' rather than having some time really absorb it all, research, chew it over, feel it.

Today was just pushing it too much for me. My leg misbehaved. We walked kilometres. And our rough chain-smoking disgruntled bad tempered mad guide, talked too much with too little regard for us.

We got off to a late start and picking up some other passengers in the old quarter, golden horn, which is not made for traffic yet there's plenty of it.

Our first stop was the Greco-Roman Hippodrome/Stadium and an explanation of this earthquake prone area which is really like a layercake of history with the next stuff being rebuilt on the ruins of the last.

The next was the Blue Mosque. We scarved up and shoed off, and it was a total surprise for me inside. I hadn't expected it to be so  light and so decorative. All those lovely symbols of the flowers: tulip, carnation and rose, in beautiful designs and patterns. So uplifting to the spirit.

The guide went on about its earthquake proof construction, and how a girls job was to weave a carpet. She was selected as a wife by its merits. After she died the carpet came to this mosque. But they were then 'relocated' and now they have to make do with a nylon carpet. (see Facebook for photos)

San Sophia opposite the Blue Mosque, looked like a Mosque but it was a Byzantine Church, rebuilt 3 times following Earth Quakes. It contained some interesting mosaics and is UNESCO world Heritage listed, but I found it dark and gloomy. Very hotch potch.

After this we visited Top Kapi Palace, the home of the Sultan. While very beautiful with gorgeous gardens, architecture and detail in tilework, calligraphy etc, I was really struggling physically. And my thoughts were saying 'you bloody opulent Sultans. all  these world leaders rubbing shoulders with you, because you're so rich and powerful. Yet your Empire has amassed wealth from.pillaging other countries and their people'. Maybe I'll look at it differently after rest.

But no, we kept going. After food we were taken to a silk and angora scarf shop. They like us to buy but we don't. Last stop is the Grand Bazaar.  It may have been special in the past but it exists for tourists these days. We take a peak, then catch the train back to the Hotel

And rest!

To Constaninople

Took 12 hours on the bus from Capadoccia to Istanbul/ Constantinople. apart from a few refresher stops, we made a point of stopping at Ankara, the capital to see Attaturks Mausoleum. Garman, our Guide asked for our respect.

Attaturk is the founding father of modern day Turkey as a secular democratic state in 1923, following defeat in WW1, the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire and a revolution to overturn the occupation of Turkey which had been carved up between allied forces.

There were many radical changes including a change in alphabet to Latin, a massive education program and the introduction of sir names. A distinct alignment with Europe while forging a national identity and giving a voice to women and minorities.

Turkey stayed neutral throughout the WWII. However I have heard some horror stories about Turkey and wanted to ask about freedom of the media and treatment of dissidents as hallmarks of democracy.

It's a funny country and I'm trying to make head and tail of an incredibly complex history. The Turks are so Central Asian. They have had tribes come and conquer, or take refuge. and other tribes have left and dispersed. Like the Parachinari refugees who stayed with me were from a Turkish Tribal group who had settled in that area some time ago.

Then there was this huge dominion of the Ottoman Empire for 600 years, over Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Syria, Iran, Iraq, the Stans, North Africa. They seemed to have ruled without regard to anyone and amassed great wealth, some of which we have experienced today in Istanbul.

We booked into our Hotel, then 12 from  the bus crew head out to near the Galagas Bridge to celebrate our last night together.

To Capadoccia

We find ourselves tonight in a Prince of Persia complex in Capadoccia. Our room is carved out like a cave with an uneven floor that goes uphill to a tiny door into an old fashioned bathroom.

To go to the restaurant it was up steps and along Islamic arched verandahs and around corners and downsteps, past the pool to yet another exquisite buffet meal of Turkish food.

Tomorrow morning I must wake at 5am for a balloon flight that leaves at 5.30am before the sunrise. This has been something I've longed for my whole life. This kind of flight, but over the fairy chimneys of Capadoccia is something else.

Today we have been in a bus for the best part of 12 hours with a few toilet stops on the way and 2 very other special places.

The first was in Konya, the last stop on the Silk Road and the serchook capital. Mevelana del Aladdin I Rumi came here at the age of 12 in the 12th Century,a poet, a philosopher, who denounced material goods, in favour of the Love of God and Respect for All Living Creatures. It's where the swirling dervishes derive from.

Like all good prophets like Jesus, St Francis of Assissi and Rumi who live humble lives and refuse wealth, the followers tend to lavish wealth on idolising them, rather than follow in the footsteps of their teachings.

Same thing happened here with one of the first mosques built after Rumis death. The place had been turned into a museum, housing original hand inscribed and illuminated Korans, even a bit of the prophet Muhammeds beard and many artefacts of the derwishes.

The other special place we stopped was a caravansai.  All along the silk  route there were 100s of these enormous enclosures where traders and merchants could rest a night or three with their camels.

Inside were rooms, verandahs, trading halls and a mosque. Oh so beautiful in proportion and symmetry and detail, you could just imagine how it was 700 years ago

Cappadocia

Imagine taking off in a hot air balloon as the sun was beginning to rise over the Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia, Turkey.

This was something I could only ever dream of, but today I did it.

We arrived in the dark, passing massive balloons being laid out and being blown up in the fields around Goreme, and between the fairy stacks. Loads of them. As the sky lightened a little we watched the luminescence of rising balloons across the valley and in the sky.

Soon it was our turn. There were 20 of us altogether 5 in each of 4 compartments in the basket. Vu was our pilot in the middle.

We floated around the valley close to the strange rock formations and after a while we rose up to see the sun rise over the old volcano.  it was breathtaking - a whole sky full of hot air balloons, as well as down below in the valleys, the red and pink valleys. It was just extraordinary. We climbed over 6000 feet.

After an hour Vu started searching for a landing place but a breeze had come up apparently and he couldn't land where he hoped to. So we were up an extra 25 minutes and he came down in a place where the ground crew could catch the rope and pull us down to land squarely on the trailer, and save us from hitting Powerlines.

We drove around on the trailer still in the basket with the balloon fully inflated. Eventually we climbed out, and the crew set up a champagne and cherry juice breakfast. They decorated the basket with leaves and Roses. Some of them deflated and packed away the balloon. While I watched they called me closer, then lifted me up and threw me onto the packed balloon.

Back at the Prince of Persia Hotel we had to knock back breakfast quickly in time for the days tours.

First was an underground city for early Christians escaping from marauding Romans and other groups. In the middle of the day we visited the Fairy Chimneys and went into the home of someone who'd lived there for4 generations. Later in the day we also visited a Byzantine Monastery which was also underground. It was the place if Saint Basil, with early frescoes from 8th and 9th centuries, and plaster frescoes from later on 11th and 12th centuries. The Sercuk sultan protected the Christians and they honoured him in a fresco.

We also visited a jewellery, precious stores shop, with demonstrations of Torquoise  originating from Turkey) and sultanite, a crystal that changes in colour, depending on the light.

We visited a pottery shop and saw a demonstration of pottery making that dates back to the Hittites who were in the area for up to 3000 years bc, and revered nature.

I'm so buggered I've got to sleep

Kusadasi and Ephesus

I don't know if I had an exam if I'd get of this right, but today was one big history lesson in the flesh ( or stone).

We left the port city of Kusadasi for Ephesus after a yummy breakfast,  trying to make it there before more rainfall.

Now let's see - this was the land of the Amazons and then the Persian Empire took over and then they were beaten by Alexander the Great and it became a Greek Empire and called Anatolia,  soon to be overruled by the Roman Empire who called it Asia Minor. After initial persecution of Christians gave way to acceptance under ? ?  There are 7 of the 12 Apostles who are marked by major sites in Turkey, including St John. And then the Turks arrived from Asia and the Stans in the 1100s. The Ottomans were one of those tribes who dominated

So Ephesus was discovered under the dirt in 1903 and while excavations continue, only 15% has been uncovered. The period of this majestic city is around 300BC to 300AD.

It was a society with a structure. At the top of the hill was Government who worked out taxes and trade. There was local government who dealt with sewerage, hospitals etc.

There was like half amphitheatres with ingresses called vomitatarians, so that people could leave after The News or a Gladiator Fight.

There were communal toilets with underground drainage systems. There were communal baths where diplomacy took place, and a 4 sectioned area for steam and heat at different temperatures, regulated by the spacing of columns under the marble floors.

We saw places where the elite lived in beauty and luxury.

We saw the market places.

And the statues to the Goddess Artemis, Goddess of Fertility and Agriculture. We saw Nike, Hercules and others, who later transferred to be Roman Gods.

The ruins were impressive but the scale was grander, with evidence of multi-storey temples and massive statues that stood high on the hill and out over the harbour.

After a few hours in Ephesus we headed to Sirence, a hill town that specialises in fruit wines. We drank some mulberry juice and explored the town along up and down streets with craftshops on the side.

The hills, mountains and valleys are so abundant with olives, walnuts, mandarins, quinces, mulberries - you name it! The land of plenty and the best food.

On the way back to the Hotel we stop at a weaving co-op where they make Turkish Carpets. We saw how the silk is made. From Silk Cocoons in hot water to the gathering of the threads, to the loom, to the art, to a demonstration, to some raki (Annise) to the Sales. I would have liked to have purchased something and supported the co-op but just couldn't.

Big day - so tired. Almost out of battery.

Chesaycueredam,  thankyou

Goodnight

Samos

Samos is a large Island that is very close to Turkey. It is so much more green that the barren Mykonos and Santorini.

Our room at Hotel Samos looked over the harbour. Anneli and I wandered along the harbour and the market street.  The buildings were yellowy with green shutters and red tiled rooves - so Italian!

It was raining.

We met Miro at the bus stop before heading over the mountain to Pythagorio, the home of Pythagoras and home to Cleopatra and Anthony for 3 years.

We explored an early Christian Church and an earlier temple before taking shelter in a restaurant along a pretty harbour of fishing boats.

I hadn't realised that the rain was coming into the restaurant and my bags on thE floor were becoming a sponge. Everything was saturated, including my passport. Eek.

We raced for the bus back. My leg was killing me.

We said goodbye to Effie, our dear guide for a week, then caught a small ferry to Kusadasi in Turkey.

Here we are in the Marina Hotel. Today we are going to Ephesus

Mykonos to Samos

A lazy morning  in Mykonos, washing clothes and letting the warm breeze dry things off on the balcony, while Anneli explores the town.

At noon we set out for paradise! The way to paradise may have been better than the destination. Curling around the little cobbled and white little laneways to find the bus station was a little magic.

Then the bus took us over dry boulder fields, probably basalt, and down into paradise. And what a descent it was too. Derelict beach resorts, hogging the beach. Rusted piles of old Beach chairs. A dusty car park. Anneli took a photo of the pile of moet bottles.

One wonders what Super Paradise was like.

At 9.30pm we caught the ferry to Samos arriving at 3.30am. The docks were lined with sleeping refugees.

Mykonos

My impression of Mykonos had been coloured for me before I got here. It was the party Island. It was busy, touristy, expensive. It would be the place where I could hide away in my hotel room, put my legs up and relax.

And that is exactly what I'm doing now, while I wait for the washing to dry.

But by golly it's pleasant from here in our bungalow looking out over the harbour. Like all places we've stayed at or eaten in that have been referred by Effie. They are quiet, quality and slightly rustic, run by friendly people. This is no different.
(see Facebook pikkies of mosaic floor, and leather apilque art.)

Last night Anneli and I took the Seabus out to the old port. Here was the classic Mykonos landscape of tiny streets, cobbled with white plaster around the stones. The streets twist and turn between courtyards and red domed churches. Originally the meandering narrow streets were designed to confuse the pirates who used to loot the island.

On our way we bumped into fellow traveller Miro (Slovakian via Toronto) and he joined us for a meal at Nikos Taverna.  We shared a bottle of Assyrtiko wine and I had octopus pasta. We had a good laugh about Anneli going into the wrong bungalow startling a sleeping man.

After dinner we wandered around the streets and came across a linen shop with lovely shirts. The seller came out and said 'pure linen, fixed prices' then continue to offload about his terrible day with greedy insulting Americans.

we missed the sunset but caught the twilight. The Venetian Quarter was a pretty area where house verandahs leant over the sea, in pretty colours. It was packed with people, wine bars and restaurants close to the edge of crystal clear waters.

This took us to the windmills. So beautiful. We  took some fantastic photos which are up on Facebook.
Just so full of atmosphere.

We took the Seabus back home. But Outside Mathews Taverna we met Effie, who was dressed up and ready to take Miro out. He tried to wriggle out of it but was unsuccessful.

Resting up this morning while Anneli has gone shopping on the town.

We don't sleep tonight. We take a night-boat to Samos. We arrive at our hotel at 3am.

Samos we will see Refugees. Red Cross has set up there and apparently it's quite well organised. But Effie warned us it is confronting and 17 people died in the crossing 2 days ago. Mostly women and children.

Confronting is an interesting word. Because its where we meet, carrying the baggage of our opportunities. Perhaps once those middle class Syrians would have enjoyed the spoils of life, much the same way as we do as tourists. But here they are risking life and limb fleeing something unimaginable to us, going to anywhere that will offer safe harbour.

Our life on the sleek tailor made thread of the tourist route, all in our bubbles of life, having 'been there, done that' but so untouched by the realities of lives in the places we travel through, but all the same offering tokens to their economy and ecological messes from our demands on resources.

Santorini Tour

I was wrong - 60% of the island is dedicated to wine growing and 40% to tourism. These grapes that grow on the ground are pruned and shaped in circles to grow up in a basket shape in order to protect the grapes from the wind and elements. The result is a dry fruity wine called Assyrtiko which Anneli and I,  polished off on the balcony last night.

Our tour began at 9 with archaeologist and tourguide Caterina. She was funny, feminist and fantastic, bright as a button, and presented in such an engaging way.

After a climb to a byzantine monastery in the clouds, we set out through the village of Megalohori. Although we were a line of tourists walking through those narrow streets between blue doored white moulded walls, and under bell towers to small piazzas, it felt more real and rustic than some other places.

We were on the southern end of the Crescent 🌙 shape of the island. And in 1967 a Greek Archaeologist discovered the ruins of a city of a civilisation from 3600 years ago. This is Akrotiri, the Pompei of Greece. It too had been destroyed by a volcanic eruption, though people had time to escape. No bodies were found at Akrotiri.

As they excavated a sophisticated prehistoric (means before writing) society revealed itself. No queens and kings but a place of state, with smooth stoned 3 story buildings that would have looked out to sea as it was 3600 years ago.

There were beautiful pots discovered, with coloured motifs of their contents, possibly a market place.

There was a ladies' shrine where frescos had been kept in their full glorious colours, depicting sensuous scenes of makeup and fashionable clothes. Those frescoes are now in the Archaeological Museum in Athens.

They also had sit up toilets. A throne with a piping network under the buildings.

Nature was depicted in free motifs such as the flying swallows.

These people had discovered bronze and gold. They were traders. And they were wealthy.

It seems there was a nasty earthquake preceding the volcanic explosion. The people took off. To where is unknown.

,,,,,,,?  

We visited Red Beach, then Black Beach. We had a beautiful lunch by the sea of Fava, Tomatoes, Haloumi, grilled Zucchini and Eggplant. Then rested on a deckchair on the black sanded beach.

Off to the Winery for tour and tasting.

By the time we reached Oia, the classic Santorini postcard site, where we had 4 hrs to kill, to watch the sunset, many of us were so buggered. The Blokes just didn't seem to get sunsets and pulled their partners back home. I was sort of intrigued. It was certainly a beautiful place but I didn't fancy getting out of there with a throng of 1000s through tiny streets, while limping.

So we caught the local buses home to Kamari, to enjoy our bottle of wine with fresh pistachios in the balcony. Effie joined us.

Xxxx

Santorini

Santorini is a volcanic Island in.the Cyclades group. It's beautiful  Crescent  shape is part of an old caldera, with islands in the middle from other volcanic eruptions, the most recent being 1957.

It was an 8 hour ferry trip here on a ship the size of the Spirit of Tasmania. Around 500 of us alighted  and swarmed through the crowds trying to find Effie and the green folder.

The bus took us up a series of hairpin bends as we made our way up the inside wall of the old volcano.
The views became more stunning.

Such a dry dry Island. Grape vines grow prostrate soaking up moisture from the ground and air. Tiny tim tomatoes are others that are hardy enough to grow. And some of our gumtrees survive quite well, giving a slightly gnarled look like the occasional olive tree.

Not too long ago donkey would have been the major transport, but now donkeys are a specialty for the tourist trade. Quad bikes seem to have taken over.

Santorini seems made for tourists these days, and Anneli and I were 2 among many. The world gravitates to Santorini as the iconic Greek Island, and Santorini turns it on.

We arrived with our group of 21 at our courtyarded cool Rose Bay Hotel at Kumari.  After downing our bags we go for a swim in the inky blue coloured hotel pool, then wander down to the black sanded beach. All lined with umbrellas and tavernas.

We took a bus up to Fira in the evening, the main town on the island. And took a meal in a lovely taverna overlooking a breathtaking view at sunset.  Pikkies on Facebook.

We wandered around the narrow streets of kitchy bling and Disney lights, before getting on the local bus back home with very full stomachs.

Athens

rewritten from 16 September on 8 hr boat trip to Santorini. Have learned - don't try and attach photos to blog. So FB is home of Photos and Blog is home of Words.

ATHENS 16.09.15

Athina ine poli horaya.Athens airport was just so laid back and casual. So easy to get through, and they just waved me through customs without a second glance. 

I wassypposed to get an airport transfer to the city but there was noone to meet me, so after a travel agent made a few phonecalls to Hotel Titania, I ended up catching a cab, from which I was reimbursed.

Panepistimiou 52 I said. And asked the driver how to say 52 in Greek. We didn't stop talking, from Yannis F, and Syrisa Party, from prepared, to post war, The Generals, to nationalism and the Golden Dawn Party. ' I'm passionate about politics' said George. It was 1974 that I came here with Mum and Dad as an uncontrollable 17 year old. That was the last year of The Generals.

Having settled into Titania with my increasingly runny nose,  I washed the grime off from 24 hours of travel, took my vitamins,  washed my clothes and went downstairs to meet Effie, our guide for the trip ahead.

She was young, casual and friendly and gave me some good tips for Athens.

I walked up to Sytagma Square, passing the university and library in their classical white marble,  crisp against the blue sky, but with Oxi signs plastered on the walls below, from their recent referendum and their upcoming election.

I passed some beggars. I wish I had loose change to give.  (I will put in another purse for such Occasions)

And finally to Sytagma Square,  the stately office of parliament with the very toy-like Greek guards outside.

I wandered down to the lower part of the square that hummed with life, to the narrow buzzing street where we stayed in 1974. Memories came flooding back.  But there wasn't the smell anymore,  at least not that I could discern.  And the small tavernas and cafes on the square now bore the names of multinationals, MacDonald's and KFC.  Shops were bigger, brighter, more glitzy. As everywhere I suppose.

I wandered back down Panepistimiou realising I don't have a frigging Pin for my new Mastercard.  I tried what I thought may have worked,  but it didn't. Lucky for those Euros u got in Sydney.

I realised a few things aren't working.  Even if I hook into WiFi it's not enough to send WhatsApp messages or to upload images onto Facebook. And how would I contact the bank?

I was so buggered I had no energy to try. I had a short nap before going to find the place Effie had recommended for good quality and well-priced authentic Greek food. It was not far from Omonia Square.  A taverna named Athinayoi.  And I had a dish of melanzana loaded with garlic,  with chunky bread and taramasalata and a delicious egg and lemon fish soup.  All for 10 Euros, about $13.

Satisfied, I went back to the Hotel to collapse. With air-conditioning on I was awoken by debilitating cramps in my calf muscles.  I downed 2 magnesium.  Fell asleep again only to be startled about 3am by a work related phone call.  Well at least someone could get through with global roaming switched off.

I called the bank via the room phone and got a pin number, all on an automated service. Now I won't be able to send this post unless I get stronger WiFi. Lots to work out.

Anneli arriving today and tour begins this evening.  I should concentrate on keeping well and not overdoing it this morning.

Xxx

Ps. A full buffet breakfast with travellers from everywhere, especially France and India from what I can ascertain.  Still no wifi.

Athens 2

Athens 1 was such a good post, but it frigging wouldn't send.

So this is Athens 2. The communists are marching down the street chanting with red flags waving. I'm sitting in the foyer of Titania Hotel and outside I can see the police are preparing their shields tear gas and masks. Tomorrow is the election.

This,  the home of democracy.   And we started our day with a tour of Athens, and up to the Acropolis.  Our lovely little group of 21 had a guide called Aphrodite, a short neat woman in her prime who was really thoughtful and clear in her delivery. Our little group merged with the throngs of others climbing to the Acropolis,  each groups guide holding up a number or a flower, but our Aphrodite held up a green folder.

It was so hot and we treasured the shadows and shade of the olivegroves, where we listened to the history of these monumental classical temples to the Gods.

16 years ago the new acropolis museum was built, and it really is a beautiful modern building that reflects the space, form and grandeur of the Acropolis up above. Below are glass floors that look down into ancient and more recent ruins like a layer cake of history.

And in a spacious way it displays the statues and treasures of the Acropolis, some of which are replicas by those taken to the British Museum.

You get the impression of Athina being some woman. Born out of Zues' head in a day, she held a spear and shield, wore a helmet and a medallion of the head of Medusa.

DUBAI

7.25 am but going on 18 hrs since leaving Sydney at 6.45 last night. Emirates is comfortable but we've been chasing the night without much sleep and got the snuffles. Knew that was coming on :(

Funny place the not so old Emirates. Talk about built environment with bling! Dubai built on slave labour, from people who come from Philippines among other places. They become indentured labourers while  their visas are held and they work to pay off their airfares.

The airport is massive. Took 15 mins on bus to get from plane to terminal centre, then 15 mins walk to get to Gateway Lounge C36 for the plane to Athens at 10am

Doing well without need for wheelchair. I'm relishing the exercise.

Boarding

thank you to my chaperones Ms Nadyat El Gawley and Ms Eileen Coll who dropped me off in exactly the location for Emirates and my magic carpet tour.

I found an electric toothbrush, the slim vibrator model inside the airport. This will accompany the tea tree toothpaste, reminding me forever of our country's natural pharmacy (another Greek word) before I freshen my mouth for bed.

I have just finished a fishburger and an NZ sav blanc. Have heard they acted swiftly and it's good riddens to Mr Rabbit. One Term Tony - not even that - Yay!!!!! Just more balls from the Labour Party please cos the battle starts now. Stand up for refugees and quit the bullshit rhetoric. A little more Merkhel.

I'm turning off global roaming and very dependent on WiFi from now on. So you are spared the rants for the time being.

On to the carpet! With The Monthly, the Soduko, a good book and some podcasts (great idea Rosie)

Xxx

the journey starts here

Waiting in the Doctors waiting room.
Fold up walking stick in my bag, waiting for a letter to accompany on board the flight.

I feel I've done as much preparation as I can. I've got a useful bag packed with no more than 6 changes of clothes. I've kept light with my puffer jacket doubling as a pillow in a silk bag. And lightweight boots for every day. My uniform is tights top and pinafore. If too hot, then just pinafore.

Got lightweight towel, swimmers and hat. Rosie's lightweight umbrella, lightweight shoe covering gumboots.

My phone doubles as camera, computer, torch and game centre where Wifi is available.

Feel that cold trying to come on. Gonna hit it with an orange ginger carrot and apple drink. And maybe some Ease a Cold for the trip.

About 20 hrs in the air. Looking at some of those on-board exercises. Roll them shoulders, slowly roll the head. Point those toes. Lift Em knees. How much room will Emirates give? What will their food be like? Are there any good movies to see? Among Men perhaps?

I've got Gabis book to finish - a Hong Kong female crime thriller.

And just allow myself the daze when I finally arrive in Athens.

Kusadasi - Map

Mykonos - Map

Santorini - Map

Athens - Map

ITHACA

As you set out for Ithaca
Hope your road is a Long one,
Full of adventure. Full of Discovery
laistrygonians, Cyclops (Gertrude)
angry Poseidon - don't be afraid of them:

You'll never find things like that on your way
As long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
As long as rare excitement
Stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians, Cyclops, (Gertrude)
wild Poseidon - you wont encounter them

Unless you bring them along inside your soul,
Unless your soul sets them up in front of you.

Hope your road is a long one.
May there be many summer mornings when,
With what pleasure, what joy.
You enter harbours youre seeing for the first time;
May you stop at Phoenician trading stations
To buy fine things,
Mother of Pearl and coral, amber and ebony,
Sensual perfume of every kind -
As many sensual perfumes as you can;
And may you visit many Egyptian cities
To learn and go on learning from their scholars.

Keep Ithaka always in your mind.
Arriving there is what youre destined for.
But dont hurry the journey at all.
Better if it lasts for years,

So youre old by the time you reach the island,
Wealthy with all you've gained on the way,
Not expecting Ithaka to make you rich.

Ithaka gave you the marvellous journey.
Without her you wouldnt have set out.
She has nothing left to give you now.

And if you find her poor, Ithaka wont have fooled you.
Wise as you have become, so full of experience,
You'll have understood by then what these Ithakas mean.

***************************************************************

By Constantine P Kavafis 1911
Written in Greek
Inspired my Homers return journey of Odysseus to his home island.

Handed to me by a rather magical music teacher, Mrs Stacey Caponas
2015

Bed with Puss

Home.
My Bed
Mishka purring on my lap.

On Monday I leave all this behind for 10 weeks.

I'm leaving on a jet plane. Emirates infact.

What started out as a desire is transforming into a reality.

Weeks and months of building it up, with the help of Anneli for Greece and Turkey, and Rosie and Lou for Airbnb and Evernote.

35 years since I've travelled to this part of the world.