FLORENCE

When I arrived in Florence yesterday afternoon, it was like arriving home.

Yes things had changed. MacDonald's "Welcome to Florence" was the only map in site. Under the station was a shopping precinct with the goo gaa gaa ohh la la of ritzy glitzy brand names.

But in some ways it was more straightforward. The streets were free of cars other than service vehicles, bicycles or tiny electric cars. Otherwise it was all free for pedestrians.

I walked straight up to Santa Maria del Fiore, passed the Baptistery and I felt my heart expanding in awe. So beautiful in their majesty.

I used to find my centre by walking down the centre of the marble patterned floor, like a line in space. Because above is the vaulted ceiling, full of space, centred, round, balanced and beautiful.

I used to walk to Michelangelos pieta but it has been moved to a new museum opening at the end of the month. But I could walk under its massive dome. It's like being inside a mountain, awesome because it was designed and engineered and built and adorned by people, people who believed anything was possible.  While it's religious in purpose it's also testimony to 'mankind' 'kindmen' and women.

I lit a candle, and wondered down Palazzo Vecchio, Piazza Signoria and David, and Perseus (the favourite pick up place), then onto via Vinegia where I used to visit my friends. They were a very expansive household of artisans, where everyone was welcome. Good food, good discussions and music too.

Onto Santa Croce where I used to work in the Goldshop, selling silver, Then along via tintorini where the dyers used to work, over the Ponte Vecchio, where my friends sold their craft,  to Santa Spirito where I also used to live. I hung out there.in the more rustic end of town and.drank pino grigio until I heard from Enrico my Airbnb host.

I finally found Via dei Cerchi 1 and Enrico called out from the 4th floor to come up.  So I did, yes I did. Infact where I'm sleeping is the 5th floor and on the 6th is the terrace.

From the terrace you literally are right next to Palazzo Vecchio and a stones throw from Santa Maria del Fiore and Giotto's Tower.

The house must be 500 years old at least, when the average size of adults was that of a 12 year old.

Enricos toilet is the smallest I've ever been in, in my life, less room for the knees than a Jetstar Flight. Walls and ceilings painted red. And if you stand up straight you'll bump your head on the ceiling. Kitchen also red with very low light. Bathroom you have to almost squat down to go through the door. And the shower is tiny but at least there is a shower. Most houses didn't have them when I was here in 76-77- just the bidet and I used public showers from time to time.

But my room has high ceilings and shutters. Shutters are the best. They're called Persiane in Italian and it's Enricos specialises in painting.them for a living, besides the Airbnb business. He was born in Fiesole, the mountain I hope to visit tomorrow.

I was so happy and excited about being back in Florence that I could hardly sleep last night.

I lazed around in the morning, then wandered off to Palazzo Vecchio. Waiting in the queue to get my ticket I saw a Firenze Card promotion: 72 hours, access all museums, transport, and WIFI. Cost? 72 Euros.

That's expensive compared to Roma Pass for 35Euros for 3 days, but... could be worth it? Vivi, I tell myself, when you lived here you never went inside these places - now is your chance! Ok bread and water for lunch, just do It!

However unlike the Roma Card you also have to line up to get a ticket with the card, supposedly for everything you go to. But I didn't know this after I'd climbed the stairs, (no walking stick - i forgot it) and was told to go down and get a ticket. I was angry that they didn't explain anything to me when they sold me the ticket. I was even angrier when they kept me waiting while they fart-arsed around for the 2nd time. I demanded service - i said in Italian, you didn't explain anything to me, you didn't explain about the tickets, you didn't explain about the wifi. When they were too busy to serve me again I demanded a refund, which they refused me. Finally I had to accept it and one girl started to explain and help. I don't get angry that often but Italian is the best for getting it off your chest.

I let off all remaining anger by climbing the almost 300 steps to the top of the tower at Palazzo Vecchio. These guys just swiped the card - and voila. Amazing views from.the top including Enricos terrace.

As I came down I visited the Museum and I have some great pictures up.on Facebook. Vasari painted a lot of the ceilings and walls with classical themes. All this for Cosimo Di Medici 1.  He had no trouble amassing power but also being a patron of the arts.

The main salon had huge huge huge paintings largely of bloody battles with Pisa.

With my Firenze Card I was keen to see all paid exhibitions, so visited another called 'Principe dei Sogni' - Prince of Dreams, focussing o. The restoration of 20 panels of huge tapestries, depicting the life of Joseph. art using fabrics.

Another Exhibition was called Magnificent and was telling the story of the Rennaissance in Florence via animations of the works of Botticelli, Leonardo, Da Vinci, Donatello etc projected on a huge scale in a vaulted room. Art using technology.

Eat my bread roll under Perseus  but all people are in either couples or families.

And now.... Drum Roll.... The Uffizzi. Yes I get in relatively easily. There are lots of people but you can move and you can see. Even got a full view of Botticelli's Spring and Venus. So many other artists: Michelangelo. Bronzino, Ghirlandaio, da Vinci, della Francesca, Caravaggiio.  Some were ones I knew from our walls growing up or cards that Mary Martin had collected from The Medici Society in the 40s and 50s. There is an overwhelming amount - on the ceiling, on the walls, and sculptures as well.  I just let the expression of the paintings talk to me, and if they had 'it', then I'd stop and stay a while. Photos will be on FB.

Wow, Uffizzi. I did it! Been there, done that! What next? Broom broom, walk walk, Pitti Palace to Bobboli Garden. Yes used to love going there. Used to be free. Italians used it. Now only a handful of tourists.

I went to 2 Exhibitions inside Pitti. Had never been inside before. A costume Exhibition - wow. And an exhibition of Modern Art. Modern Art starts in the 1700 for these guys!

But as we got into the 1800s I started seeing similarities with Australian art around the same period - is it Stretton, McCubbin - pastoral scenes, bush scenes. Gradually you get to see more ordinary people and daily life, and then comes more awareness of light, and then print and colour, and then forms. And more female artists.

By this time I'm buggered. I stretch my back. Then wander over to Santa Spirito thinking I'll find Minestrone for a good price. I find a really cosy Trattoria and enjoy my gnocchi with porcini mushrooms.

I wander home. I don't care if I get lost. It's all beautiful. And before long I find Via dei Cerchi,  but first let me try the Gelato place Enrico recommends in Via Tavolini. Well.the girl serving me is Sicilian from Randazzo where I was 2 weeks ago. She's blown away. She loves Florence and Sicily. Her name is Samoa. She's so excited by my story too and impressed that I'm.doing this on.my own. Our whole conversation was in Italian.  If I was here for longer I'd get so good.

ALLORA