ROMA

Which ever way you look in this part of Rome there is something grand, something ancient or something beautiful.

These precincts have been cleared of cars to make way for pedestrians

My.leg hurts like buggery and I've just walked in a circle looking for Trevi Fountain but on the way I have passed so many extraordinary buildings, wide open piazzas and narrow little roads with shops selling the most elegant of fashions. Nikki would love it.

I have stopped at a not so cheap restaurant to give my leg a break and to quell my hunger. Lasagne, salad and wine.

Already I have been to the Collosseum this morning. Met some lovely people at Airbnb, a Hungarian man and a Mexican girl with a scriptwriting background here in Rome for the launch of her friends film. So we had a really nice extended chatty breakfast. It was so worth it. I so miss company.

It was so easy to catch the metro to Collosseum and with my Roma Pass I could skip to queue and get in more quickly. I hired an audio guide which partially worked.

In essence The Collosseum was the Entertainment Centre of the day. Built from 72AD just a few years before Vesuvius errupted, the entertainment was largely about Gladiators fighting wild animals. Mostly Slaves but occasionally free men, while looked on by the nobles and senators of the day in the best seats, the plebs in the higher seats and the women in the farthest corners.

Somehow around 500AD it all started  to decline and much later the materials were used to build the monuments of the time, such as St Peters Cathedral.

I continued past the Collosseum up Pallastrine Hill and down into the Roman Forum.  I was grateful for the fountains running fresh drinkable water, so I could fill up the Collosseum foldaway drinking bottle that Rosie gave me.  I couldn't find any in the shops and wonder if Coca-Cola won the day again.

The Roman Forum was larger than I had the capability to explore. I didn't go up, I only went down, but found a lovely place that honoured physicians of the day (ties in with the book I'm reading - The Physician' and a natural spring.

My head spins trying to make sense of it all. All over Europe are the vestiges of Roman dominion, of their cleverness with Roads and Aquaducts and equally their use of slaves for work, for building and entertainment.

A European history. And 2000 years ago in Australia a people who'd lived in a similar way for over 40,000 years without the need to overpower others, to make their stamps with daunting structures, but who found an elaborate system for living sustainably on the driest continent on the planet.

At this point I struck up a conversation with the couple sitting next to me at the restaurant, Drew's from Scotland and Carla from Chile. Drew thought I was Italian so he felt free to be giving his thoughts and opinions and when he found out I spoke English he felt embarrassed for swearing. Anyway it was Carlas birthday so it was nice to celebrate with them for that mini-time.

I went to visit Trevi Fountain but it's under repairs so no water. However we could see behind the see-through fence. Very beautiful.

From there I walked up through a Spanish quarter to Villa Borghese, formal parklands that also contain the Museum and Art Gallery of Villa Borghese.

My Roma Pass got me in for free. That's 13Euros for this plus 13Euros for Collosseum plus Roman Forum plus any public transport. Getting so worth it.

Anyway the Gallery. Bellini, sculptor in marble extraordinaire! Creates fine detail and movement and emotion.

And Carravaggio. A few of them including self-portrait as Bacchus, rather green looking. And Dads favourite, the boy with the fruit. Dried leaves and blemished fruit, although it's subtle. Other very moving ones too.

I loved the Florentine artists. You can always tell them from the lightness, softness and colour, those gentle expressions and warm tones of skin. They tend to tell religious stories but using models of the characters of the day. It's a nice prelude to what lies ahead.

Inbetween the sculptures and paintings were sculptures of haute couture, amazing clothes from leather, metal and other fabrics that were works of art and beauty. Interesting juxtapositioning.

Leaving Villa Borghese it started to rain.  My leg and back were so sore. My phone battery was flat. And I didn't know where I was.

I kept walking around the perimeter until I saw a busstop. With my Roma Pass it won't hurt to jump on. It will keep me dry. And with a bit of luck it will take me to a Metro stop.

I jumped on a bus that was put on for a Film Festival but it didn't matter, I got to a Metro.

From the Metro I could get home, get dry, charge my phone, read my kindle, wash clothes, make dinner and finish my blog.

😄

DAY 2 IN ROMA

I took some salutary advice and spent the morning in bed. It was raining anyway so it was a cosy thing to do.

I had intended to get up early to go to St Peters  and the Sistine Chapel both in the Vatican. But with stories of huge crowds, the rain and the strain on my leg, I thought to spend the time looking on line from my bed in Rome. It begs the question 'why travel anywhere when you can do it virtually? '

But on FB Lizzy Mackie said Piazza Navona was beautiful, close to old Rome and the Ghettos. And good for Pizza.

So I did my research on Wifi before leaving the flat. Said Metro to Collosseum then 87 bus. So I walked out thinking I was prepared but left my walking stick behind. Ok I thought, if I'm smart with transport I can use buses and Metro with my Roma Pass.

Except by the time I got to Piazza Navona I had somehow lost my passcard. Schiessen.

Piazza Navona was spacious and alive, with buskers everywhere, African Street vendors and with 3 prominent fountains.

One was of the 4 major rivers represented with marble sculptures of strong and sensuous bodies, with pigeons and seagulls perching on their heads.

I had pizza on my mind but probably made yet another unsound choice. I thought I could sit down and still look at the Piazza, but those restaurants are designed for tourists and charge exorbitantly. So even for Pizza Margarita and a glass of wine it was 18euros. That pizza not worth the Piazza.

The trouble is they advertise their menu with prices but in small writing, and then each restaurant has its spruikers on the street. How long will it take for me to wise up?

But as I wandered off towards the Ghetto  I picked up a leaflet about a Leonardo exhibition close by. Similar to the one I went to in Syracuse but these were larger reconstructions, all in wood. The bicycle, the helicopter, the sawmill, the printing press, and many more, along with His designs which he was unable to materialise at the time.

I realised I couldn't walk far. Without my Roma Pass I wondered if I'd be able to use the same bar code on the packet. I jumped on a bus bound for Tiburtina.  Nobody seems to show tickets and drivers don't ask. I waved the barcode and took the trip. It was about 5ish when I arrived back to the station. Then I thought 'i wonder if this barcode will work on the Metro. I really want to go to St Peters, even if it's just to stand outside.

I limped to the Metro, waved the barcode, but it didn't open the barrier. Oh bugger, so I brought a 100min ticket for 1,5 E and went anyway. A sardine experience and without the stick I don't get a seat

I discover St Peters is not right next to the station, unlike Collosseum. I walk down a broad Street straight into the Vatican.

What a place - light and spacious. I see the place where the Pope stands to address the masses, that we often see on TV. But it doesn't capture the feel of the place. It's very impressive. I was there such a short time, thinking I needed to get back before my 100 minutes was up.

Back home I met 2 lots of interesting people and had an evening conversing in Italian. Maria and her husband are from Agrigento in Sicily, spending a few days in Rome with friends. And Luca is from Padua, working for an extra 2 weeks in Rome. We had a real exchange talking about vegetables. raddicchio is not radish but rather a red cabbage. Verza is the word for green cabbage. This island in Venice has the best artichokes etc etc. He said if I couldn't sleep I could knock on his door and we could continue the conversation. Naturally this made it hard to sleep.

But now on the train to Firenze, with food prepared by Maria - spinach empanada and pizza pomodoro.